When author Tembi Locke’s mother-in-law came to L.A. to see her cancer-stricken son over the holidays, she arrived with a suitcase filled with braided garlic, specialty cheeses, tomatoes, olive oil, almonds, and lots of dried figs. Intent on soothing hearts, Locke’s mother-in-law took to making cuccidati (“little bracelet”), the traditional Sicilian Christmas cookies. In this article, Locke recounts what these small, buttery cookies taught her about her own grief, her mother-in-law, and the power of forgiveness.
Ingredients
Makes 16–20
DOUGH
⅓
1
½
2
½
2
FILLING AND ASSEMBLY
1⅓
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
½
¼
1
1
Preparation
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DOUGH
Step 1
Pulse ⅓ cup (67 g) granulated sugar, 1 tsp. baking powder, ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour in a food processor to combine. Add ½ cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces, and process until mixture is the consistency of wet sand, 10–15 seconds. Add 2 large eggs and pulse until a ball of dough forms.
Step 2
Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and form into a fat cylinder. Wrap in plastic and chill at least 1 hour.
Do Ahead: Dough can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled.
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FILLING AND ASSEMBLY
Step 3
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Pulse 1⅓ cups chopped dried figs, 2 Tbsp. chopped dried apricots, 2 Tbsp. raisins, 2 Tbsp. chopped raw almonds, 2 Tbsp. chopped raw pistachios, 2 Tbsp. orange marmalade, 2 tsp. honey, 1 tsp. finely grated orange zest (if using), ½ tsp. instant espresso powder (if using), and ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon in clean food processor until finely chopped but not puréed.
Step 4
Unwrap dough and roll out on a lightly floured surface to a rectangle slightly larger than 10×8″. (If dough cracks around the edges, just push it together; it’s quite forgiving.) Rotate dough so a long side is nearest to you, dusting with more flour if needed. Trim dough to measure 10×8″, then halve lengthwise to make two 10×4″ rectangles.
Step 5
Using wet hands, roll half of filling into a 10″ cylinder and arrange down length of 1 rectangle of dough. Fold long side of dough nearest to you over filling and roll up to encase filling; gently press seam to seal. Roll log seam side down and rock back and forth to secure. Trim ends. Slice log in half crosswise, then slice each half into 1″-thick rounds (you should have 4 or 5 rounds each). Place rounds on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing about ½” apart (the cookies won’t spread much). Repeat process with second rectangle of dough and remaining filling; arrange on baking sheet.
Step 6
Bake cookies until pale golden underneath and firm, 17–22 minutes. Let cool on baking sheet 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely.
Step 7
Whisk 1 cup (110 g) powdered sugar and 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice in a small bowl until smooth. Icing should be thick but pourable (slightly thicker than heavy cream); thin with water if needed.
Step 8
Set wire rack with cookies inside baking sheet. Spoon icing over cookies and immediately sprinkle with multicolored nonpareils, chopped pistachios, and/or finely grated lemon zest as desired. Let cookies sit until icing is set, 10–15 minutes.
Do Ahead: Cookies can be made 2 weeks ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.